Although I phrase it as "Additional elements" these are absolutely necessary things to add and consider when choosing your enclosure and fitting it to your animal's needs.
Choosing a heating element and regulator
There are many ways to provide your reptile with the heat and temperature changes they require for life. While all of these methods work, some are better than others, and their efficiency can be species dependent. I'll only discuss the ones I have used and am familiar with. Be aware that more options may exist.
Heating elements:
Halogen bulb- A type of lamp bulb that produces heat and light
*Heats up the air (ambient heat) and produces a hot spot
*Allows for penetrative heat (heat that reaches further into the body: think like the feeling you get when you sit in a ray of sun vs the feeling of sitting on a heated seat, one will warm you up more completely than the other)
*Creates a temperature gradient from the hotspot outward
*Stimulates a day/night cycle because it gives off light, but therefore cannot be used during the night
Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE)- A type of lamp bulb that only produces heat and no light
*Heats up the air (ambient temperature) but does not create a strong hot spot
*Allows for temperature difference within the enclosure but does not have as strong of a gradient
*Gives off no light so it can be used during the night if necessary (for example it may be needed in colder climates for species that need higher temperatures)
Heat mat/heat tape- A flat piece of tape or a pad that is applied to the outside of an enclosure to heat up the area that it rests on
*Does not heat up the air
*Creates a hot spot but only in the location of the mat
*Does not offer a good temperature gradient
*Doesn't give off any light
Never use: Red light heat bulbs
These are marketed as nighttime reptile-friendly but this is false. This belief stems from the misconception that reptiles cannot see the color red and therefore the red light does not disturb their sleep; however, color blindness does not equate to light blindness. These bulbs still give off visible light and to a reptile is the equivalent of it constantly being daytime, which can disrupt their circadian rhythm.
Regulators:
Dimming thermostat- a thermostat that reads temperature and adjusts the output of the heating element to keep the intended temperature
*Can be paired with any of the heating options listed above
On/off thermostat- a thermostat that reads temperature and completely turns a heating element on or off to keep the desired temperature
*Can't be paired with halogen bulbs because they give off light, with an on/off thermostat it would be constantly flashing which can be disorienting to both the animal and the people in the same room the enclosure is in
Manual dimmer- a dial attached to the heating element that allows you to choose the output of heat from the heating element and keeps it at the desired output constantly, requires you to measure the temperature yourself to ensure you choose the correct output
*Can be paired with any of the heating options listed above
Choosing substrate
When it comes to the ground your animal stands on, there are a lot of different options and mixtures of options you can try. There are also things you want to outright avoid.
Viable options
Loose substrate: Aspen fiber, aspen chips, sphagnum moss, coconut fiber/coir, topsoil, play sand, cypress mulch
Solid substrate: Tile, paper towel
The loose substrate options can be mixed and matched in many different combinations. Different combinations will hold different humidity and alter the texture so it is good to experiment. Some animals like hognoses and corn snakes can do well on a mix of the two aspens because they don't require high humidity and aspen is very easy to burrow in.
I personally use varying mixtures of play sand, topsoil, sphagnum moss, coconut fiber, and cypress mulch in all my enclosures. For example, if an enclosure has higher humidity I use more coconut fiber and sphagnum moss, but if it is arid I use more topsoil and sand.
Warnings:
-Aspen cannot be wet or misted regularly because it is prone to mold.
-Coconut fiber/coir cannot be used in a more dry setup because when it dries it becomes dusty and can cause respiratory issues when inhaled by the animal
-Many topsoils contain fertilizer and other chemicals for stimulating plant growth, you need to ensure there are no such things in the brand you choose to use. Topsoil is packaged in bulk so you will also have to manually sift through it all with your hands because there may be pieces of scrap and metal inside that can endanger your animal (I have found wire and sharp metal in topsoil before)
Avoid at all costs:
Reptile carpet- It is a solid piece of turf-like carpet that is marketed for easy cleaning, but in reality, it is a breeding ground for bacteria. These pieces of fabric can never be fully cleaned unless they are washed thoroughly with a (animal-safe) chemical agent or hot water to eliminate the bacteria. If you need solid substrate for easy cleaning or for monitoring stool, choose paper towel. It is cheap and can simply be tossed and replaced so it does not harbor bacteria
Calcium sand- This is fine sand often marketed for arid animals, but for lizards in particular it can be a cause of impaction. No sand should ever be used on its own as a substrate unless it is within the needs of a specialist species
Other needs
Some species may need other components added to their environment, and they may need these elements to varying degrees.
Lighting/UVB
If you are using a heat source that does not give off any light then it is a good idea to supply it with some kind of light to mimic a day/night cycle. If the animals are in a room that has natural light this may not be needed. Simple lighting can be accomplished by using LED lights that don't give off any heat. It is best to use these because adding additional heat sources may disturb your temperature regulation system.
UVB is not just a light source, it gives off special rays of light that are meant to mimic the sun. Some animals need this light to survive because without it they cannot absorb calcium and end up developing life-altering deformities that may cause them pain for the rest of their lives. When choosing UVB for your animal it is important that you research what percentage it needs. If your animal requires UVB this is not a step you an skip. Many reptiles don't require UVB to survive, but even then if you choose to you may supply a low-strength UVB bulb simply for enrichment since it would add an extra layer of natural environment mimicry by adding an artificial source of "sunlight."
Always remember that UVB bulbs must be changed out at least once a year. This is because of the special nature of the bulb and its contents. These lights can "expire" in a way where they no longer expel these special rays of light.
Water
All animals need access to a water source to survive. Without water, no animal can survive for long. Always provide clean water in a bowl at least. Standing water should be replaced at least once a week, or more frequently if it becomes dirty from an animal dumping substrate into it. The size of the bowl will depend on the size of the animal and its behavior. If it is a species proficient in maneuvering in water you may supply a larger bowl or even a complex water feature. If the animal is an arid species then you will want to make sure the animal can stand in the water if it so desired, but that it isn't steep or deep enough to drown it.
Remember that you have to supply the animal with clean, safe drinking water. You should be willing to drink the same water as your animal is, so if you know the tap water in your area is not safe for human consumption then it also shouldn't be given to your animal. Amphibians are sensitive to chlorine and other chemicals in the water, so you will have to dechlorinate any water you give to an amphibian whether it is in a bowl or in the sprayer you use to mist the enclosure.
Some animals prefer to drink water droplets off of surfaces in the enclosures rather than using standing water in a bowl, it is important to meet their needs and either spray the enclosure often to allow them a drink, or install a water dropper that will slowly drip constant droplets onto a surface. You can still supply a bowl to allow the animal to choose to partake in it if it wants to.
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